Blemish-prone skin: which protocol to offer in the treatment room?

What to look at during the diagnosis

Before any treatment, take the time to observe and to ask. Two "blemish-prone" skins can call for two very different protocols.

• Shine and skin texture: excess sebum, enlarged pores, T-zone or the whole face.
• The type of blemishes: blackheads and comedones, small isolated blemishes, marks left by past blemishes.
• Sensitivity: oily skin can also be sensitised, often by overly stripping products used at home.
• The current routine: what the client uses, how often, and what she has already tried.

The Skin diagnosis training gives you a complete method for that first consultation.

Which treatments to offer in the treatment room

Three techniques complement each other on oily, blemish-prone skin. They can be offered on their own or combined in a single course, depending on the state of the skin and the client's tolerance. Depending on that tolerance, the first session can be limited to cleansing and LED, with the peel coming at the next session.

Hydro-microdermabrasion to cleanse

Hydro-microdermabrasion combines suction, water and microbubbles. It extracts impurities, blackheads and comedones without assaulting the skin, which makes it a very good first treatment for a client discovering the salon. On the AquaPeel IV, the A.P.S. Pure solution, with niacinamide and alpha-lipoic acid, is dedicated to oily, acne-prone skin; A.P.S. Detox, with glycolic acid and witch hazel, cleanses the pores with a gentle peeling effect.

The peel to refine skin texture

Pure Peel from the Peel 2.0 range (salicylic 20 % equivalent) is the reference for oily, blemish-prone skin, enlarged pores and marks left by acne. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble: it penetrates the follicle. Its Expert version, Pure Peel +, is reserved for very oily skin, with a mandatory prior test and at least 4 weeks between sessions. The detail of each reference is in our guide to choosing your professional peel.

Which routine to recommend at home?

The results of a course depend as much on the daily routine as on the sessions. It is also a natural retail lever for the salon. The cel.estetic range offers a line dedicated to oily and acne-prone skin.

• Pure Foamer, a purifying cleansing foam with niacinamide and panthenol, for oily skin and blackheads.
• Pure Tonic, a purifying and rebalancing toner.
• Pure Perfect, a rebalancing anti-blemish serum with phytic acid.
• Pure Repair, a mattifying, purifying and sebum-regulating cream with niacinamide and zinc.
• Matte Protect, a mattifying day cream SPF 50.
• Active Peel, a night cream with mandelic and salicylic acids, for skin that tolerates it.
• Anti-blemish patches, for targeted spot treatment.

The mistakes that hold results back

• Stripping the skin. Oily skin that is assaulted often produces more sebum and becomes reactive. Purify, yes; dry out, no.
• Stacking exfoliating actives at home on top of the in-salon peels.
• Stopping the course too early. The first improvements encourage the client to space out sessions: that is the moment to remind her of the planned programme.
• Forgetting sun protection, essential after a peel and to limit marks.
• Promising perfect skin. We talk about a gradual, visible improvement in the appearance of the skin, not a guaranteed result.

Training

The EAOT Academy offers Chemical peels and Microdermabrasion training, in person or as a digital version on my.celestetic. The Skin diagnosis training completes the path, so you can lead the initial consultation with confidence.